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Does anyone think it's worth testing out NOS vintage capacitors that are between 80-120uF, such a Kemet Mil-Spec T140/T240 Solid Tantalum capacitors? Just one example of the type of vintage caps I could try. I have so many I can test with such a low voltage requirement that I'm now overwhelmed with options, lol.

Thank you for verifying this for me! I'll let you guys know what I think once I get the AA-51 reading FUN01's THD accurately vs. the reference numbers from Singxer. I hope to have it finished before Jan 1, 2019

I'm using two identical SU-1 clones (FUN01 V1.1) to do capacitor comparisons and I am wondering what is the lowest voltage capacitor that is safe to use in the positions of the aluminum electrolytics on the SU-1/FUN01? I realize there are more than one version of the SU-1, but please just stick to my question and don't start ranting about why Chinese clones are the devil. From what I have read, the voltages are 5-7V, so would a 16V Sanyo OSCON be okay in all 6 positions? One other question, is there any truth in people saying that the capacitor nearest the XMOS has the biggest change? I wouldn't have thought so based on my experimenting, but curious if anyone has a comment on this topic.I'm comparing against Rubycon BlackGate™ F, Rubycon RX30, Sanyo OSCON, Nichicon Muse, Nichicon Fine Gold, ELNA Cerafine, ELNA SILMIC, ELNA ARS SILMIC Super Gold, ELNA ToneRex, etc.I had a decent amount of people asking me to test the OSCON series, but it only goes up to 16V from what I found (correct me if I am wrong).Feel free to come by and check out my site, I'm working on the Potomac AA-51 for getting accurate THD, IMD, Phase and more measurements. I landed on using screw terminals in the capacitor holes and you can get the rest of the details if interested in the link below.https://hallmanlabs.com/2018/10/11/...son-testing-in-progress-photos-and-a-preview/ If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve or general feedback/criticism, you can find my contact info on the site or comment at the bottom.Thanks for any help you can provide!

In case someone else has a similiar question about the TPS7A4700, the answer lies in the datasheet: The last sentence confirms what I assumed. If you don't care about having an enable button/independent turn-on option and are fine with the input voltage being applied as your switch, it works fine. http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps7a47.pdf

With these TPS7A4700 Power Supply Regulators. Does the EN pin need to be used or is that optional just to light an LED? If it does require a signal, does it need the positive (high) or the ground (low). My module has the P marked instead of the N, I believe that is inverting the output vs non-inverting, but figured I'd mention it just in case. Thanks as always for any guidance you can provide. My DSC1 is coming along nicely. Besides this EN connection on both of the TPS7A4700s, I have the upgraded 10k:10k perma-alloy transformers installed and I added Neutrik XLR jacks. Pics to come soon! That is a schematic for an upgraded DSC1 that many have been trying to get ahold of, called v2.5 (printed on the PCB). I stated and showed pics of mine, you should see a clear difference between that and the original DSC1 that only has balanced outputs. That design has a portable transformer board so they can easily test multiple transformers, and it has both balanced and unbalanced jacks. What the forum was saying is that anyone selling a DSC1 has to release a schematic of their own under the Open Hardware rules. The official name of the one I have is the generic DSC1.Difference with a date printed of 2016.07.30

Well sure enough, after I installed the "Singxer_USB-Audio-Class2-Driver-_v3.20.0.exe" driver and I applied external power to the FUN01 V1.1, it lit up on both sides of the PCB. Link to driver here: http://www.diyerzone.com/u_file/download/17_09_11/d149b53444.rar I do have a question with regard to how the usual FUN01 power works. If I plug the external power in without the USB cable, I get the left side of the board to light up, but not the small SMT LED on the right side of the isolators/ground plane split. If I plug the USB cable end only I get just the right side of the board (looking at inputs/outputs side), without external power cable. Then I tried running the SBooster VBus2 in tandem with my AudioQuest Jitterbug, but I lose the SMT LED when I try this combo. To me this means the FUN01 must have BOTH USB power and external 5Vdc

I figured those WIMA were way too small for uF scale compared to my huge 0.1uF\100V WIMA caps, commonly used at a Coax input. Thanks for waking me up this morning with that! I do realize I have to remove the current transformers before adding the new ones I attached the DSC1 board I am using, don't have the schematic currently. Edit: I knew it! I thought I had asked a similiar question on this forum before, but when I checked my activity it wasn't showing up for my posts. So I made another one thinking I had asked over on DIYAudio instead of here. I believe the transformer I picked was recommended in this thread.

I have a quick question about the DSC1 DAC (2016 model). I have two Rubycon Black Gate Non-polar caps I was hoping to use. I was told I can't use them in place of the two 100uF electrolytic caps towards the XMOS/Amanero pins, since that position needs polarized caps. Then I realized that there are two other 100uF caps, the WIMA caps (coupling caps I believe). Is this a good use of capacitors as expensive as these? If not, any recommendations for where/how to use these non-polar Black Gates? Coupling is the most common way I see most non-polar caps being used. I have upgraded 10k:10k transformers on the way, but I think there is room where the WIMA is soldered, comparing with my current 600:600 transformers. Thanks for any info!

Thank you for weighing in on this topic. I was wondering the same thing last night, if this was volatile memory or non-volatile. I hadn't bothered to read the datasheet yet to check. This is indeed how my FUN01 DAC came from the usual Ebay seller you see linked for this XMOS design. Note: I got a response from the seller (9cn8864) and this is what he said in response to the picture shown above. Could it be true that this flash memory isn't necessary? I really hope so! However, if you look at their own pictures of the FUN01 V1.1 it shows the flash memory in place. I will definitely let you all know if it is simply a driver issue or if the seller is wrong and this is a hardware mistake. Image from the Ebay Ad:

So if that is correct, it's a 52 cent part. I'll get a few, won't make any difference and shipping will be 50% of the cost of a Digikey order like this. Only thing is Digikey doesn't currently have them in stock. Can someone with the FUN01 V1.1 confirm what elan120 has said? Thanks for the info!!

Alright, I found the problem with mine... This is ridiculous (Note the quality control passed sticker, almost funny if it wasn't MY HARDWARE!!) Can someone let me know what IC I am missing? I can install one before they could get another of these out to me.

What drivers exactly are you all using for the FUN01 V1.1? I tried the Singxer_USBAudio_v4.36.0_2017-11-14_DSD512.rar However, that did not seem to work. I already had the normal XMOS driver installed and working with my Burson Play DAC. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I tried with and without external 5V supply by LT1963 LDOs. I get the small LED to come on, but none of the larger 3 towers will light up and the device isn't showing up in playback devices. I tried USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 jacks both from the motherboard and a PCI-e USB expansion card. Surely I didn't get a dead unit after waiting 1.5 months for it...

I run my own reviews, build logs, news, troubleshooting articles, etc website. My site is free of ads or trackers if anyone is interested in checking it out: www.HallmanLabs.com I usually do reviews on Op-amps and DAC accessories, like the AudioQuest Jitterbug or Sbooster Vbus2. This time I am comparing two completely separate DACs. The Burson Audio Play vs my custom ES9038Pro DAC. The only input the Burson "Play" has is USB input! This limits the way I can get specific test signals into the unit for comparison to my ES9038Pro that has 3 input interfaces. I am looking for recommendations on good software for checking jitter, phase, BER etc. I know of a few, but some are unable to play nicely with Windows 10 x64 Pro. A good example being Audio Rightmark, sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. http://audio.rightmark.org/index_new.shtml I have a pretty decent digital oscilloscope (Siglent SDS1202X-E 200 MHz w/ serial decode included free) and a dual function generator, but how can I use this when digital input is my only option. Edit: I did notice that my DDS function generator has TTL output in the rear. That might be handy in a situation like this.

I figured being non-polarized would come back to bite me on this design after looking at it closer. Any suggestions on what to use these for?

I have two 100uf Rubycon Black Gate capacitors (non-polar version). Do you all think it would be a waste to put them in place of the two 100uF caps seen on the input end of the DSC1 board? Are those two coupling caps in that position?