
Gavin1977
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DIY Taiko Audio Rectifier PCB (New)
Gavin1977 replied to Gavin1977's topic in Buy & Sell Audio and Computer Components
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DIY Taiko Audio Rectifier PCB (New)
Gavin1977 replied to Gavin1977's topic in Buy & Sell Audio and Computer Components
Bump - still for sale. -
@flowcharts you mention the Angelique stranded, any comparative thoughts, or where each differs?
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Article: Review: dCS Bartok APEX DAC with Headphone Amplifier
Gavin1977 replied to austinpop's topic in Article Comments
Good job as always Rajiv! -
Very nice, but why not bend the heat pipes around so that heat dissipation an occur via the existing heatsinks?
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Top class
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Sweet builds guys
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It’s unusual to go from the rectifier straight into a choke, LC arrangement - usually CLC is done with cap first before the choke (same for power amplifier design). Not saying it can’t be done, some people do, but I believe that having an inductor straight after rectifier needs special consideration.
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It’s decent enough, but it’s no HDPlex DC-DC 800w or Taiko. Fine for a basic server build, but you’ve got dual sage - I’d just keep it on hand for testing or a stop gap.
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No - you need a bleed resistor
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Definitely include bleed resistors - if your power supply is in a separate chassis and you need to disconnect and the reconnect the umbilical. The resistor will drain the capacitors for you (takes about 4-5mins in my situation). Never reconnect the power supply back to your server until the caps are fully discharged, otherwise sparks will fly and you’ll likely kill your DC-DC converter. It takes a long long time for the caps to discharge otherwise, causing you to wait for ages before you can power your server back up (e.g after moving it, or switching a card or other tweak).
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Some nice design tips here - I like the copper motherboard mounting plate, easy to DIY and will help remove heat. Also, only 4 (larger) heat pipes on the CPU, which then get sandwiched in-between the heat sinks by the looks of it. Neat.
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I had no idea that Eunhasu OS was available in x86 flavour. Anyone else played around with this?
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Just for peoples benefit, this information comes courtesy of May. If you wish to use the clock input functionality of tX-USBx10G with your sCLK-ex (and you didn't buy it with one) then you need to contact SoTM for a firmware update to your sCLK-ex. But, you will also need a cable to flash the sCLK-ex with the updated firmware that you will receive via email. The USB connection on the sCLK PCB is a Molex 51021-0400 Easiest way is to buy this premanufactured cable assembly (part no. 218112-0401) and attach it to a USB A breakout board (solder) or a screw type like this: Cheers
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Pair it up with a First Watt F4… that will give you 50w