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Gavin1977

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  1. @flowcharts you mention the Angelique stranded, any comparative thoughts, or where each differs?
  2. Very nice, but why not bend the heat pipes around so that heat dissipation an occur via the existing heatsinks?
  3. It’s unusual to go from the rectifier straight into a choke, LC arrangement - usually CLC is done with cap first before the choke (same for power amplifier design). Not saying it can’t be done, some people do, but I believe that having an inductor straight after rectifier needs special consideration.
  4. It’s decent enough, but it’s no HDPlex DC-DC 800w or Taiko. Fine for a basic server build, but you’ve got dual sage - I’d just keep it on hand for testing or a stop gap.
  5. No - you need a bleed resistor
  6. Definitely include bleed resistors - if your power supply is in a separate chassis and you need to disconnect and the reconnect the umbilical. The resistor will drain the capacitors for you (takes about 4-5mins in my situation). Never reconnect the power supply back to your server until the caps are fully discharged, otherwise sparks will fly and you’ll likely kill your DC-DC converter. It takes a long long time for the caps to discharge otherwise, causing you to wait for ages before you can power your server back up (e.g after moving it, or switching a card or other tweak).
  7. Some nice design tips here - I like the copper motherboard mounting plate, easy to DIY and will help remove heat. Also, only 4 (larger) heat pipes on the CPU, which then get sandwiched in-between the heat sinks by the looks of it. Neat.
  8. I had no idea that Eunhasu OS was available in x86 flavour. Anyone else played around with this?
  9. Just for peoples benefit, this information comes courtesy of May. If you wish to use the clock input functionality of tX-USBx10G with your sCLK-ex (and you didn't buy it with one) then you need to contact SoTM for a firmware update to your sCLK-ex. But, you will also need a cable to flash the sCLK-ex with the updated firmware that you will receive via email. The USB connection on the sCLK PCB is a Molex 51021-0400 Easiest way is to buy this premanufactured cable assembly (part no. 218112-0401) and attach it to a USB A breakout board (solder) or a screw type like this: Cheers
  10. Pair it up with a First Watt F4… that will give you 50w
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